Today we set off on an adventure!
We go from Heraklion, after as usual battled with Port Police. Now they suddenly wanted us to pay, nothing was said about that when we arrived. They wanted to be paid for three days, but we had only stayed two days, so they had to settle for € 15.
Our goal today is to find Stella's tavern in Agios Pelagio. We were there in 2010 along with Marie & Pär. We then told Stella that "one beautiful day we come here with our sailboat." We go in and anchor in the bay. Take the dinghy to shore.
That is, first we wash off all the salt on the dinghy. It has accumulated a great deal when it has splashed behind us mile after mile.
Then on with the oars, for safety's sake, and so the outboard.
Pack what we need (wallet, glasses, camera) in a plastic bag and seal as best we can. NOW we are ready to depart. Good thing that no one sees our "elegant" boarding!
Full-cutter to the shore!
Then the idea is that I should get out of the boat and pull it up a little and Björn will wiggle up the engine so that it does not hit any stone. I do not really know how it happened, but I got out and got the boat over me in some way so the result was that I saved the boat, Björn managed to be dry, but I was soaking wet altogether!
Hmm, are there any store that sells clothes?
Oh yes, we found both shorts and blouse for me, and I had to take the wet clothes in the bag. Every cloud has something fine lining! I got some new clothes!
Kristina; do you remember that exact same thing happened when we were up in Källvik to visit? I was soaking wet that time too, and Björn sat feet dry! I think I'll start running the dinghy instead, and Björn will be getting wet next time!
It was a happy reunion with Stella eventually! Many greetings to Marie and Pär! What we ate? Stifado course! Probably the best place in all of Greece to eat stifado on! Yum!
In the evening we take the dinghy back to the boat without mishap.
Then it starts to blow more and more. And eventually also the pounding music from a disco nearby startes. They also have some sort of disco lights sweeping over both land and sea in all sorts of colors.
At one o´clock we go up to keep track of the anchor in the wind. I go to sleep again at Björn's suggestion after some hours, while Bjorn sits up all night. I get up again at 6 o'clock, and we decide to set off, after looking at fresh GRIB files (weather files). They said we would get downwind to begin with, then headwind last bit. No strong wind.
The reality was quite different.
We started with the headwind and especially head seas. High waves. The wind tossed and turned, so that during the 3 hour journey we had all possible wind directions, and the wawes that went whith us sometimes, and against us sometimes. On top of the whole thing, we arrived and would lay anchor, then the capstan faied completly, so we got a heck there too! Talk about Murphy's Law!
Now we have eaten breakfast and Björn has gone to bed for a much needed sleep.
The day goes by with some wind, so we were swaying the whole time. We are expecting a new anchor-guard's night. But when the evening comes, the wind decreases, and as it turns out we get a really calm and silent night!
We are in a bay called Ormos Bali. Here it is very beautiful, with both beaches and mountains all around. The morning starts quietly, but soon the waves starts again. We leave directly after breakfast. As usual we have to go by engine with the wind against us. Rather high waves, but no worse than that we chug along until Rethimno, which we reach after 2.5 hours.
A proper port! It's very nice to be able to connect ourselves to a dock and remain stable!
Now we stay here a few days. Björn will try to do something (Mc Iver-style) to the windlass. We need a working windlass (located at the bow) to anchor in coves and bays. We have an anchor (manually) in the stern as well, we use it when we need to anchor a bridge or so, but the anterior anchor is also very important.
We take off on a shoppingtour today, and replenish our supplies substantially. We bring a bike and loads of it, and that is fourtunate, because we had never been able to carry home all that we bought otherwise. Just water, for example, can be purchased in packs of 6X1,5 liters at a time. We never drink water from the boattank, but to all the other water that we boile, we use the boat's water supply.
While we are here, we have a very good sized city at our feet. There are shops, large and small, bakers, butchers, beaches and bus links here and there, so we are in a really good spot. I'll try to find a place to get our laundry cleaned today. It use to be easy, convenient and inexpensive.
Björn has fixed both the laundry and gotten a luxurious fish for dinner! Yes, it is like I always have said; You have to have the right Kapten!
In the evening we were invited to our neighborboat (named Sula) for a drink. It was a very enjoyable evening! We were a total of 10 people, six Englishmen, two Australians and us two Swedes.
"One drink" was a whole table full of nice things! Even homemade pizza and cheese and biscuits! We started the evening at 7 o'clock, and swerved back home (at least 10 meters!) At twelve thirty at night! We can not honestly say that we understood everything when eight English-speaking people meet for what was quite a lot of glasses, but we had great fun in the meantime we tried! So, Sue and Mike, thanks for letting us participate!
The Australians have already left when I get up at 8 o'clock. The Englishmen on our right side get ready and go soon after. One of the couples from yesterday live here on the island, so they went home with a dinghy last night. Now it's just us and Sula remaining.
Björn had to show our boatspaper again this morning, because as it turned out the Port Police that first received our paper were not the only ones that should have them, though they kept them yesterday! Sigh, sigh, sigh!
We will take the opportunity to refuel because Sula is to call a tank truck for themselves. They will also embark today.
Weather plays tricks on us today. All forecasts have said nice and slow, but the reality is between 11-14 m / s ALL DAY! Additionally southerly wind, which we have not seen in the
forecasts. It was a moment in the morning, when all was quiet, it was then our other neighborboats took the opportunity to leave, but Sula was not in a big hurry.
We are not affected especially of this weather,except for that Björn can´t work with the windlass when he risks all small items from the disassembled windlass blowing into the sea.
We rest! Mmmm, no problem!
But poor Sue and Mike that have a deadline to meet in Chania, is not going away. All day goes by, and there is not a chance for them to leave.
This morning at 7 am finally Sua and Mike will get the chance go. I wave to them and wish them a good sailing.
Today it is quiet again. It is difficult with the weather forecasts here, yesterday they said that it would blow today as well. So far, not a whiff!
We went to the city today. Having spent 3 hours walking around in the "old town". Lots of cozy lanes and passageways. We meet one group guide-led tourists after another. There is a train that circulates in town, and even double-decker driving around tourists. We hear all sorts of languages, mostly Russian, or whatever it may be. Very nice atmosphere in this little town.
After a day of hiking, it feels good to get back to the boat and get some grub. The time is 19:30 before the food is on the table, so we are getting greek-inspired in terms of meal-times!
Today, we hope to get a reply regarding the new windlass. The old has died! They do not have that kind of stuff on the shelf here, but must order, hopefully from Athens, in the worst case from Holland. Could be some waiting. Then there's the issue of price also. If it will it be too expensive, we have to consider buying a new one when we get home and take it on the flight down. It weighs almost 10 kg, so we rather not take it with us from home. We await.
As it turns out that we have to buy windlass home. It was just too expensive here! So we'll improvise for now, and make sure that it works without it until September.
At night it was movie night! We rigged up the computer in the cockpit and watched the Gota Canal.
This morning (about 7 am), it is very strange weather. The boat is soaking wet on the outside while the sun is shining, if I look to the south, the whole sky is completely grey. We will see what will become of this. Rain or shine?
It was sunshine – of course! Lovely weather again today.
In the evening Joyce and Brian from the boat next to us came over for a glas of wine. We had a very nice chat about everyting between heaven and earth. It is so very interesting to meet people that have had an exciting life to tell you about.
Today, Björn washed the outside of the boat, much needed after all the salt collected.
Once again we walked the town for tree hours today. It was ended at about nine in the evening, when it is absolutely wonderful outside. Not too hot, and since it was Sunday, there were a lot of Greek families out walking, a very pleasant evening.
Because of the heat, we did not do much at all today.
When I woke up this morning it was quiet and nice, but in the morning it began to blow. Since then we have had up to 8-9 bft at the top and constant wind all day. There has been a lot of fixing with lines for strengthening around here in the harbor. No boats who want to come or go. In the evening however, the fishermen begins to go out as usual, they do not care if it blows cats and dogs out there! At 20:30 the wind starts to settle, and it gets quiet at night.
So far it's nice and quiet here. We'll see the day ahead if yesterday's blowing repeats itself, or how it goes. We have to leave the boat to shop today anyway. If it is as windy today, one of us gets to go off to the store, and the other may have to stay here.
The day was calm. Not until in the afternoon it began to blow, now from the west.
We do not have as high winds as yesterday, and the angle of the boat is now much better. When the evening came, the wind ceased, so the night was quiet.
We have hired a car for two days this week and 2 days when I go home. So tomorrow we go off on a little sight-seeing.
We also bought a birthday card for Barbro in Australia, but it turned out not to be so easy to send. The postoffice is on a strike! But in morrn will be open ....... we spent several hours in the city today. We ended up at a vegetable squares where commerce was brisk to say the least. It seemed to be “the loudest scream wins” because the dealers were screaming there heds off!
There were a lot of wonderful things, very nice tomatoes, cucumber, eggplant, strawberries, onion, garlic etc. etc. They also sold honey and eggs and fresh herbs and vine leaves.
Now, we set off in our rental car. We head west towards Chania. When we get on the road to Agios Marina and Platanias, we decide to look for the place where we had our first Crete holiday.Then we also met up with my workmate Inger and her Roddie, who also took a week at a hotel nearby. Do you remember what year it was, Inger?
Eventually we indeed find the hotel, but the price for one night is in Admirals wiew too high, so we go around the corner to another hotel, and get a much better price.
We install ourselves in the room, and then we take a walk in the surroundings. It has happened a lot since we were last here. It has been built and opened many more hotels and shops, and it feels promising in wiew of what we see in Greece otherwise, just decrease.
Björn buys a pair of swimming trunks because we (of course! ) forgot your bathings at home in our boat.
We are getting really hungry, and find a tavern that looks nice. It turns out that the waitress speakes Swedish, which we are not accustomed to! After eating a delicious dinner, we return to the hotel, and Björn takes a dip in the pool. Well, the Admiral only monitors the entire thing as Admirals should ......
The hotel owner is a Canadian who is very amusing guy, and we sit and talk to him the whole evening.
We eat breakfast at the hotel and then packs up and moves away. First, we continue west to Kissamos. That's about as far as you can get west of Crete. Then we turn back, but taking a different road to Rethymno.
When we return to the boat, it feels like we've been gone a long time, though we only set out yesterday. It's been a wonderful trip and it is also nice to see the boat again and be "home".
It´s the big laundry day today! I don`t really know where the energy came from, maybe the 2-day-trip. Since it always is perfect drying weather here, we hung the laundry all over the boat. I have to say, it feels good when you see all the freshly washed.
We have about 30 degrees in the cockpit most of the time, today it has not been any wind either, so it's HOT!
We wait until the sun goes down, and then we take a stroll into the village. First, the long quay, where Greeks are sitting (it's Sunday today) on benches watching the boat-tourists.
Then in among the taverns and shops where the commerce is in full swing. There are many people in the town, perhaps the flow of tourists has begun now. It feels like there are more people on the move now than ever before.
The Greek people are a hard working people. We see this especially when we are out and about on the town. Work is ongoing with road improvements, new construction, cleaning, window cleaning etc., etc.. Not to mention all those who work in the shops or restaurant. They often work very long hours, often open from 8 in the morning until 11 at night in the shops, and taverns are usually open until the small hours. Often 6 - 7 days a week. And when ever you come the Greeks are friendly, cheerful and courteous. How they cope is just a mystery to me. So far, the real heat has not struck, but still it is at least 30 degrees in the shade during the day, and most people can not afford the option to work in the shade.
Every day when we are heading into town, we pass a bunch of guys who work in improvement / construction of sidewalk and bike path. When we drag ourselves up leisurely and still panting in the heat, they work in the heat to make concrete and cast, pulling wires and connecting electricity, and laying paving stones!
And probably they are a part of these guys who also have a small fishing boat in the harbor, as when evening comes, head out in order to catch some fish to eke out the day's takings. Of course that means they must get up early in the first morning light to salvage there net.
All credit to the Greek people!!!
We did not get much done today either in the heat. Well, I baked a cake anyway. And Björn filled water to the boat, I have used some when I washed the other day. And he has done service on the bike, it was much needed after all the salt to which it is subjected. Besides the occasional daily walk, we do not have the energy to do so much now.
A little more wind today means great wawes against the shore. Sun, sun, sun! The weather don´t change too much here. The sky is clearblue, and not a cloud as far as you can see. The amount of tourists seems to increase by the week.
It is my sisters birthday today! Congratulations on your birthday dear sister!! I hope that your day will bring many nice surprises!
Every evening we see some fishermen go off in their boats. Some boats are a little more special than others. It is one that sounds like a helicopter, one that just kind of floats up without a lot of noise, one that barely creates any waves at all and it is one that has two German Shepherds with him in the boat. One stays quietly in the stern of the boat both when they are going out and returning. The other one is staying in the front of the boat, legs as far forward he can get, and checks out everything and barks at everything and everyone. On the return trip, he is in exactly the same position, but without making a sound. It's the same show every night, and one wonders what it is that makes him keep quiet on the way home .... bad catch..... the enemy waiting in the harbor .... tired of the voyage ... yes our thoughts may be many .
Nice waves inspires the Captain to throw himself into the billowing blue. The beach near the harbor is long and with very fine sand.
Today we were on our way home from a tour of the village, when we were involved in something very unexpected. The road between the "old town" and the port runs along the beach, a wide pedestrian and bicycle path.
There are some vendors such as bus tickets with tour buses or a small train.
They all have a little table to stand and hang on.
There are also people who want to interview tourists (a commission based job) regarding their travel and accommodation, they also have similar tables. A couple of those Swedish girls we have come in contact with because we walk past them almost daily. They share a table with a Frenchman and a Danish guy. We have never answered their questions, because we have no hotel accommodation, but today the Danish guy was there and said “come on now, please answer my questions”. OK, go ahead, we can do that.
To make a long story short, this resulted in that we won something indeterminate, which would be collected at a hotel on the outskirts of town. As the taxi ride to and from the hotel was paid for, we said OK to this. Once at the hotel, it was a long, psychological mood spell, which would result in that we would like to buy some sort of Subscription or membership for 5000 €! It's all very strange! Well, when we eventually arrived at; "thanks, but no thanks" the prize that it all started with remained. It turned out that we had won a trip!
It´s a little unclear to this day, but 7 nights at the hotel room somewhere in the world for 4 people, we have received, according to the paper we got. Of course (!) it´s an "administrative fee" of € 99, and, of course (!) you have to pay for the trip itself, but otherwise it is "absolutely free"!
This whole adventure took a total of 7 hours!!
We were exhausted when we were home again and was able to get some food.We still feel puzzled by the whole thing, but when we get home, we are at least going to call the phone number that we got together with the confirmation of the prize, so we'll see what happens.
After checking the company that we were caught by yesterday online,
we understand that it has to do with a so-called "time-share company." It is now very doubtful if we will utilize the "profit" we received.
we wandered around town for 3 hours again yesterday. We purchased a toaster!
Sunday evenings are nice, because it is the day many Greeks takes a walk with the family.
The town (and the port) is full of people of all ages and it's a very nice atmosphere.
When we got back to the boat, we had gotten some Italian neighbors on the starboard side. 3 friendly, talkative guys.
This day, we rather just forget.
It was unbearably hot, and no wind.
We have not been able to do anything.
It was not until half-past eight in the evening that we began to feel like humans again.
And then the mosquitoes!
No, I can´t say that there has been a good day.
We rent a car and head off towards the mountain Ida.
You can drive to the plateau of Nida at 1380 meters altitude.
A fantastic view and a pleasant trip.
Eventually we end up just east of Heraklion, and find a place to stay overnight.
We walk across the street in the evening to a tavern.
After eating plenty of exquisite fine food and drink, we stumble "home" in the evening sun.
A very pleasant day is over.
I get up early, take the computer with me out on one of our two (!) balconies.
Here is lovely in the early morning.
At 8 o´clock I go across the street to the bakery and buy some bread.
Then it´s breakfast on the balcony.
We go to Cretaquarium after breakfast.
That is a large aquarium where you can see fishes and other animals that live in the Mediterranean.
Very interesting, everything from large sharks, rays and turtles to the smallest tiny shrimp, and plankton that is seen through a magnifying glass.
After completing this visit we return to our temporary home.
I have delayed the Captains haircutting to the last moment, but now it`s time to do it.
With a light lunch in the stomach, we set off to Agia Pelagia to revisit Stella and her husband.
We will first find the hotel where we were staying when we were there last (with Marie and Pär).
We meet Maria, who is the daughter in this family-owned hotel.
Björn remember the names of everyone in the family, Maria, her brother that took care of the pool, and the mother (Rita) who happens to be in their shop at the beach.
We also meet the father of the family, which we never saw when we were there last.
It's always fun to talk to people who you have some connection with from the past. We finally walked to Rita's shop when we left the hotel, and exchanged a few words, even with Rita.
Then we went to Stellas.
Again, it was hugs and kisses and a lovely dinner.
We returned "home" at about eight, packed up all the stuff and went to bed and rested for a few hours before it was time to depart for the airport.
Björn dropped me off at the airport of Heraklion at one o'clock in the night and went to the 80 km back to Retymno and the boat.
I flew home and landed at Landvetter Airport at 10 o´clock
There Bernt met up with me and took me back to Gothenburg again.
We have had a lovely time with many experiences, and now I'm just waiting for my Captain to come home too.
It will be in August, and then we take a new turn together in September - October - November.
We plan to put the boat up for the winter in mid-November.
Thanks to all of you who read about our adventures, I hope it amused and entertained a few.
Thanks for all the nice comments that makes us happy all the time!
Now the Captain himself has to take over the reporting until I sign on again.
We left the hotel and went to Heraklion airport at half past twelve at night so that Asa would have little time to settle in and weigh her luggage in case she needed to reorganize. The plane would lift approximately 04.10
Also, I had 1 ½ hour driving to Retymnon.
All well and I was back around 2:30 in the boat.
This day nothing special was done. Hot as usual, hardly any slight breeze at all. Can not do much when it's hot during the day, would love to have a bit of haze that reduces the sunlight, at least a little.
Must fix something to eat, simplest possible. Not fun to be alone.
June 28 to 29
Have tried spending some time with a little reading in the day and a bit of video movie in the evening (night).
Boring without Asa!
I have made a little new boat decking that was loose after last time. Will try to put on some new Golden Teak Sealer on the teak deck to protect it from UV light so it does not become gray.
Helping my neighbors when they want to break free and go off. Windy today, sideways. They get two lines from my boat so they can avoid hitting the other boat aside. They got out but is still not free.
Their anchor is stuck in a chain that has been layed on the bottom for attaching ropes, mooring lines, instead of anchors. The place they came in to has no rope to attach to the boat so they put out an anchor instead. Maintenance is poor, the rope is certainly lying there on the bottom, but the thin line which is attached to the rope to get it up from the bottom has somebody presumably used for mooring the boat and it has broken. Fun! This thin line normally sits stuck on the bridge, and now there was none.
They had to lift the whole chain and with two ropes, one on each side of the anchor, they could get the anchor off. Tireing! Later they came back because there was a hard wind out there, +6 boufort. They could not get back into the place they had left so they had to go alongside a bit away. We were several people helping them to get moored.